Discovering the Italian region that doesn’t exist

Molise is Italy’s least famous region. In fact, it’s so unknown that its existence has become a national joke. After an Italian Facebook page titled ‘I don't believe in the existence of Molise’ grabbed my attention, I decided to go on a trip.

Originally published in Dutch by National Geographic Traveler, March 2023

I started my journey with a historic train ride from Sulmona (Abruzzo) and continued to Molise by car. Along the way, I discovered deserted villages, historic palazzos, ancient frescoes, and the most beautiful landscapes - all unspoiled by tourism and modern times. I visited the village of Agnone, famous for its millennia-old bell foundry that has been in the hands of the same family since 1339, I marveled at underground frescoes from the ninth century, and I slept in a historical palazzo owned by a countess. While driving through the untouched landscapes, I saw breathtaking landscapes, met large white sheepdogs, and stopped for lunch by pristine emerald blue lakes. At the end of my trip, I could only conclude there’s no specific reason that Molise doesn’t know any mass tourism - and maybe, it should stay that way.

This story originally appeared in Dutch and was published in National Geographic Traveler. Contact me if you want to read the full story in English.



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